Acqua di Parma Profumo is Oh So Beautiful

I seem to recall trying Acqua di Parma Profumo several years ago and having a lukewarm reaction. It must have been on one of my marathon sniffing days when I had already tried 20 or more perfumes and had olfactory exhaustion. The Acqua di Parma perfume house was created in 1916 and is best known for the eponymous Colonia scent, much loved and worn by men and women around the world. I adore Colonia, and finally got myself the slightly more floral version, Assoluta, recently. Luckily, I sprizted some Profumo eau de parfum on last month while meandering through the shops at the Breakers in Palm Beach. I literally spent the rest of the day with my wrist jammed up my nose. It has the air of a classic vintage perfume, when oakmoss was used with abandon and perfume enhanced your own scent vs. creating a toxic cloud of  synthetic laundry musks that so many newer offerings do today.

Presentation is stunning with the white silk covered box.. 

Glass lid weighs a ton & is etched with Acqua di Parma seal

I love to find a newer scent that does something different and Profumo eau de parfum meets that criteria and then some. The notes for Profumo are different depending where you look but this list compiled online makes the most sense to my nose:

Top: bergamot, ylang-ylang & peony

Heart: jasmine, rose, iris, French labdanum & amber

Base: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood & musk

The harmony created by these notes is impossible to put into words. There is a gentle spice in the top notes that isn’t listed anywhere but has hints of cinnamon to me. I can’t imagine wearing a cinnamon perfume so when I say a "hint" that is what I mean. More of an illusion of spice than, say, Opium like spice, so if you are not a spicy perfume lover, fear not.  This is a gentle warm scent with delicate sillage. It is not a bombastic perfume that will enter the room before you do and stay after you leave. Someone will have to lean is to smell this one, and they will be rewarded with a sensual scent like no other. The flowers are so smooth and masterfully blended it is almost impossible to pick them out. I can smell the jasmine but that is probably because it is my favorite floral note. The warm oakmoss-y sandalwood base is probably the best part of this scent. I would say it is definitely unisex- my friend Kevin describes the effect of wearing Profumo as “trance-like” and I must say that I agree wholeheartedly. 

Acqua di Parma perfumes are available at Holt Renfrew in Canada and at multiple retailers in the US including being Sephora online exclusive.

The Understated Beauty of L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanilia

L’Artisan Parfumeur is the second niche line I fell for, when I sniffed their gorgeous fruity musk scent, Mure et Musc Extreme in 1998 while shopping in New York. There was something so transparent and “different” about the line,  and the scents seemed so odd compared to the standard commercial releases. The added novelty of shopping at Barney’s and just being in New York City no doubt shaped my impression of the line, and for that, I am grateful. I have beautiful associations with a beautiful perfume line.

I was already a full fledged perfume junkie and had an overflowing dresser full of bottles from almost all the mainstream lines. At the time I worked for an agent promoting new releases of many lines of perfumes from our humble Canadian Alfred Sung to all the Italian houses (D&G, Versace, Bulgari, Ungaro, etc) as well as Byblos, La Perla and some other more obscure but still mostly mainstream lines. I had OD’d on the 90s powerhouse scents like Mugler Angel, Chanel Allure & Christian Dior Dolce Vita after working in environments where they were being launched, meaning sprayed everywhere. All. The. Time. Mercilessly. To this day I can spot either one of those a mile away as they do not change on anyone’s skin (sorry to any fans, but they don’t) and maintain a screeching linear tone that makes me want to cut my nose off.

My first niche line was Annick Goutal. I had fallen for Annick Goutal probably in 1994 when my local Holt Renfrew (the smallest in Canada) had the line there for a very brief period. Serendipity I’d say, as they carry only the most popular lines due to limited space. Their popular and fresh Eau d'Hadrien (lemon, grapefruit, ylang ylang) became my daytime scent and the sultry Passion (tuberose, ylang, patchouli, vanilla etc) was my nighttime go-to. What I loved most about Annick Goutal was no one I knew had even heard of it. DING DING this was the clincher and soon having a unique perfume that no one else might be wearing became a Very Important Thing.

Back to L’Artisan Parfumeur. Dismissed by many hardcore perfumistas as too bland and mainstream (although a few of their recent releases have been interesting…) I still love this line. They were the first house to do a fig scent and their Premier Figuier is still one of the best creamy fig scents- it was my eldest daughter Emilie’s signature perfume for years. Which is why, as much as I love its green, creamy, powdery and slightly coconut-y scent I can never wear it as it just smells like her. Don’t you hate it when that happens? Funny how we can associate a scent with that person and it becomes impossible to mold it into anything or anyone else.

Vanilia is an older scent from the house having been released in 1978. Perhaps it smells a bit like the 70s where high quality ingredients were tossed into perfumes pell-mell, like a soup.  The notes given (or that I have compiled online) are simple- ylang ylang, vanilla bean, amber and sandalwood. There is a fruity note that perhaps comes from the ylang ylang with the vanilla making it almost foody- but it is never too sweet or cloying. It dries down with the amber & sandalwood adding an almost smoky resinous scent, that sits and warms on the skin never becoming cloying or saccharine. The smoke is barely hinted at before it goes and for that I am grateful as I am not a fan of smoky notes. Its more of a soft barely sweet incense. Vanilia is a bit of a shape shifter, one minute being a soft vanilla scent then becoming an amber-y floral. Some have complained that Vanilia is too soft and too ethereal and have wished for an Extreme or more intense version. I think that would take away from the whole point of this scent and I love it just the way it is.

Truly one of the oddest vanilla scents I was never quite sure if I liked it. I am not a fan of sugary sweet scents and, if you are looking for straight up vanilla scent, you may be disappointed by Vanilia. If you want to smell like cookie dough or cake, this is not the vanilla for you. This is a grown up vanilla with the smooth relaxed vibe I associate with the 70s. Think soft flowing hair, maybe Indian cotton dresses and long skirts and even YSL Safari jackets. Maybe some George Benson playing in the background while you mix drinks and get the fondue ready. The beautiful yet carefree style of Talitha Getty comes to mind and Vanilia to me smells like effortless bohemian luxury. Luxury is key because there is nothing hippie or head shop about this perfume. Vanilia is for the beautiful people, to wear when you are going skiing in Klosters, or dinner in Biarritz after surfing all day. It isn’t loud and doesn’t try to hard. Like you are wearing just a touch of make up, with your hair down and sporting a carefree attitude, in Vanilia you are enveloped in a soft cashmere wrap that is so fine it’s almost ethereal- you can barely feel it on your skin. 

News on the internet says Vanilia is discontinued but several retailers I know of have plenty of stock.  The manager at the L’Artisan Parfumeur boutique at Ogilvy in Montreal told me it was not discontinued, and, have it on their price list catalogue they so kindly send me from time to time. Yet, I have decided to get a back up bottle…just in case…

L'Artisan Parfumeur is available in Canada at boutiques, and they have a freestanding boutique within Ogilvy Department Store in Montreal.

Notes on the Beautiful Shu Uemura Under Base Mousse

There has been a formula change in my favourite skin primer and I am quite happy about it. Shu Uemura Under Base is a mousse formula skin primer that is the sheerest beige ever- almost invisible on skin but it does give enough of a glow to make it better than bare skin. It also works as a primer which means it makes a nice surface for other make up like powder, blush and bronzer.  I imagine you could layer foundation over it if you were so inclined but I find adding powder adds all the coverage I need. Under Base has witch hazel for minimizing pores and some kind of magic potion that makes skin glow without shining. Sort of what I wanted MAC Strobe cream to be without making me look like I was going to a rave or had at least been sweating at one all night. Yikes.

The original Under Base formula offered an SPF 10 (on the left in pic) which was always a nice thing. Not too much but perhaps an issue for me as I like to keep as few layers of stuff on my face as possible. My skin is oily and sensitive and prone to breakouts, and sunscreen can be problematic. So when I noticed that Under Base had been reformulated (on right in pic above) and now had an SPF 30 I was of two minds. It could have gone either way. Well I busted out the new one today and am happy to report I LOVE IT. At first there is a bit of a white look to it which initially terrified me- but, of course that is the sunscreen. Not to worry, it blends and dissipates leaving only a dewy yet matte surface. If anything I like it more than the SPF 10 version. This one has slightly more of a “presence” on the skin and stays matte longer. It has a neat “sticky” consistency when first applied which I swear just grabs the make up you apply and holds onto it for dear life, making it last even longer. Love it.

Shu Uemura has gone into very limited distribution in North America but we are lucky that Holt Renfrew in Canada carries the line and indeed this product. It sells out quickly and I usually buy 2 cans at a time. But they do last me 4-6 months, keeping in mind I am an “under applier” and go easy on my make up application. There is a reason this stuff is a cult fave. Have you tried it? Thoughts?

UPDATE: Well I must share the ingredient update re Michelle's comment below. A valid concern for sure. Shu Uemura Under Base contains propane as a propellant. You can read about it on BeautyGeeks and a little more about cosmetic use of propane here. All of that said, I have never had any negative skin reactions to this product and am not really concerned- if its a mousse, it has propellant. I adore Under Base and have yet to find anything that rivals its oil controlling ability.